THE TURKISH BATH
Turkey is now a modern country straddling both the Middle East & Europe.
Much of its picturesque "oriental" past has been replaced with the familiarity of the West.
But traces do remain and one tradition, possibly one of the most significant, continues...
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~ HAMAM ~
The Turkish Bath
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Definitely one of "The Good Things in Life" - "up
there" with massage, having your hair washed and good sex - having a Turkish
Bath is a sensual delight and good for you too - you will be amazed
at how clean, smooth and silky you are afterwards!
Take the opportunity to treat yourself to an exotic and age-old tradition that
is almost impossible to find outside Turkey.
Selcuk has a hamam 2 minutes walk from Jimmy's Place.
Hamam Times:
-Men's and Mixed
07:00 am - 11:00 pm [daily]
-Women only
04:00 pm [Friday noon]
At other times we organise special private women's session [Conditions apply]
>>Please ask<< |
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A BEGINNERS GUIDE
Turkish Baths, or "Hamams", vary in their size, age, quality, fees and beauty.
In Ottoman times, in cities such as Bursa and Istanbul, Hamams were commissioned
by Members of the Royal Family & designed by the finest architects with no
expense spared. Utterly beautiful in their design and decoration it is a
luxurious and often costly experience to visit one.
Less illustrious hamams are plain, even humble structures but similarly steeped
in history. The size of a hamam and whether it has 2 sections for men and women
gives clues as to the former posperity of its town. Many are ~ 500 years old!
Hamams were not simply places to wash either – they were at the epi-centre of
society and had important social functions as well - see "Bath stories".
LİNK |
SO, WHAT HAPPENS?
TO "GET YOUR MONEY's WORTH" and NOT HAVE TO RUSH, ALLOW 2+ HOURS
RECEPTION
On arrival you enter a reception area and are greeted by a staff member -
probably wearing only a "Pestemal" (sarong, pron. "Pesh-te-mul") ! Traditionally
Gypsies work in Hamams. You will be shown the Price List, given a "Pestemal"
wrap and plastic bath scuffs and shown where to change and leave your things. It
is advisable to leave your money belt, valuable papers, jewelry and money etc in
your hotel’s Safe Deposit Box and to take only the fee with you.
• The "Pestemal" (sarong, pron. "Pesh-te-mahl") provided is a modesty bath wrap
and goes around the waist (men & women) or underarms (women).
• Men – you may wear underpants under your pestemal - or not – but nudity is
always forbidden in male
baths.
• Women:
- Women's Only Baths with female
staff – custom varies in different hamams. After asking the bath for its
"norm", "bare as much as you dare" ! If nudity is permitted, it's recommend, but
some people prefer underwear or bikini – do as you please!
- "Mixed" baths with Male staff
- wear a full swim suit and pestemal. Only remove your wrap for hamam service.
• The plastic scuffs are compulsory: to stop you from slipping on the soapy
marble floor and cracking your head on the same: Sultan Selim II actually was
killed this way ! The writer, Bron, has witnessed a barefoot woman knocked
unconscious by such a fall.
• Hang up all your clothes on the hooks or, if a gym locker is provided, there -
leave the couches completely bare for lying down later.
• Either a locker or an individual safe deposit box should be available. Lock up
your fee money, spectacles, watch etc and keep the key.
As security is usually by simple key only, it is advisable to leave your
money belt, valuable papers, valuable jewelry and large sums of money
etc in your hotel’s Safe Deposit Box and to take only the fee with you.
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INSIDE
You pass through cool rooms, with "squat toilets" nearby, to the inner Bath
Chamber - a vaulted, domed room made of pale marble. Small glass circles or
stars pepper the dome to admit beams of subtle light.
This inner-most room’s temperature varies from day to day: from easy warmth
through to extremely hot ! Some large baths have several rooms where the degree
of heat varies and patrons can choose the one that suits them best.
In the centre of the main, hottest room is a large marble platform - usually
circular or octagonal - heated from below by a furnace. Named the "Göbek Tasi"
(Pron. "Gerbek Tah Shuh", Belly Stone), this is where the relaxing, sweating and
often the bath service take place. This stone also varies in its heat - move
around to identify the "hot spots"!
Because this is a place of relaxation, it is good manners to be "low-key" in the
bath – no raucous, loud talk.
• Take everything you normally use under the shower inside with you.
• Put these near a marble basin, which then becomes "yours".
But if demand is great you will have to share. Unless you have the bath to
yourselves, friends should share.
Typically friends & family gather around basins & share them and you should
too – Turkish Bathing is very much a social event!!
• Fill the basin with water of your favoured temperature.
These communal basins ONLY ever contain fresh, clean water - never put soap or suds etc in
them.
• Use a bowl to scoop water over yourself until wet all over - hair too.
These "Ompholos" bowls are of ancient design and have an comfortable
indentation in the centre for your fingers - and head ! When you are lying down
upturn it to make a "pillow" !
• Wash your "rear" and genitals yourself.
There are private areas to do this, if desired.
Everything else will be washed later by the attendant !
Leave shampooing until last - to wash away the plain Hamam soap!
• Wet a vacant area of the marble platform. This stops you from sticking to the
stone and helps you to slip, skate and slide effortlessly while lying down!
• Lie down and relax, turning regularly.
If the bath is busy it is polite to put your head into the middle of the
platform and your feet at the edge, occupying a space rather like a slice of
pie. Lying parallel to the edge takes up a lot of space.
• Whenever hot and sticky, re-wet yourself and the Marble.
• It is NOT an endurance test: you are there to enjoy yourself and relax!
Drink regularly and go out for cooling "rests" whenever you feel the need.
Plastic drink bottles are safe, whereas glass ones have the potential to break.
Enter the hamam well-hydrated and take a further 1.5 litres of water.
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THE SERVICE
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An attendant will tap you to tell you "its your turn".
• Lie parallel to and
close to the edge of the Marble Platform.
[as in picture]
• Bare yourself as
much as you are comfortable to do so. The maximum possible level of modesty
should be observed by women in mixed baths; meaning a minimum of a swimsuit and
probably a sarong as well.
• You will be exfoliated all over with a rough wool
or silk glove ["kese", pron "Kesseh"]. Don’t worry – it’s nice – like being
scratched! But if the attendant is being a bit too vigorous just say
"YAH-VAH-SH". [Yavas - take it easy]
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• Afterwards, use the Scoop Bowl to rinse
off the grey "worms" of dead skin - from both your person and the marble -
Otherwise it will "cook" on! Another person's sweat, suds and exfoliated skin
is considered to be filth, to be avoided at all costs. Always be very careful
not splash other people .
• Again you will be tapped to be washed with creamy
Soapsuds. Some massage is included while they wash you, although the amount is
reducing, especially in Touristic areas. Just as in a restaurant - if you liked
your serving and would like some more, re-order! Tell the attendant how much
extra you would like in Turkish Lira. The attendant usually receives very little
of what you pay so even an extra dollar or two should add considerably to the
"massage". In men’s baths its can be a bit macho – "how much can you take" sort
of thing and tourists probably get extra ! If it is too strong, say "YAH-VAH-SH"
[Yavas - take it easy]
• Allow yourself to be ushered back to your basin to rinse. It
is nice to have this done for you as one can be a bit "wobbly" after such
pampering ! In some baths your hair will be washed. If not, you can also ask for
this as part of your "tip". Many women was each other’s hair as a treat.
Whichever – ask someone else to do it.
• This is the completion of the service.
You may either lie down and relax for as long as you like or go outside to the
change room area, dry off and rest there. |
FINISHING
• In the change area you will be given dry towels.
• Stack your plastic scuffs neatly and give your wet linen to the attendant.
• When dry, lie down, relax and "acclimatise" before going out.
• PLAN TO RELAX FOR THE REST OF THE DAY [Hamams are the perfect "activity"
before a flight or an overnight bus trip!]
• ALLOW 1 - 4 HOURS |
"THE BURNING QUESTIONS"
[Everything You Want to Know but were Afraid to Ask... ?!]
WHAT SHOULD I TAKE ?
• Everything you use in an ordinary shower: Shampoo & conditioner PLUS optional
soap, face cleanser, razor etc
• Anything you use after a shower: Skincare products, deodorant, hair dryer etc
• Clean clothes (and, in cooler months, a warm garment for the walk home).
• The fee in Turkish Lira
• A bottle of water: BE WELL-HYDRATED BEFORE YOU GO.
• Small Camera? NEVER take photos without the full consent of everyone present. |
DO I HAVE TO BE NAKED?
NO. Men must always wear the waist-wrap/sarong, even when washing. No option.
Women can choose - underarm sarong, waist sarong, underpants, bikinis, nude.
Some hamams do not allow nudity at all - do as the locals do.
In Public "Mixed" Baths, women should observe the highest possible level of
modesty: a swimsuit as a minimum, perhaps a sarong as well.
Deluxe Tourist Resort Hotels [especially in places like Marmaris and Bodrum] may
have nude mixed bathing. This is in no way traditional and the baths will
probably be ultra modern in appearance too. Be sure to hunt out a traditional
experience as well... |
BUT I FEEL SHY...
• You're not the only one! Most people are nervous before their first Hamam –
its a new and unknown experience - but once inside, most settle down very
quickly & never feel nervous again!
• Wear what makes you feel comfortable - you are there to enjoy yourself!
• You always wash your genitals and "rear" yourself.
• Private areas for washing are usually available; you can also turn your back
to the room for increased privacy.
• "Single sex bathing" can further reduce this particular stress and is
encouraged for many reasons.
See our special section "Girl Talk". LİNK |
DON'T WORRY ! BE HAPPY
You won't be the FATTEST, THINNEST, PUNY-EST, SAGGIEST, OLDEST, YOUNGEST,
WHITEST, MOST STRETCH-MARKED etc in the Hamam ! The whole community - from
babies to the elderly - use the hamam simultaneously and the relaxed, accepting
attitude of the locals will help you to feel comfortable too. In fact, it is a
good, "healthy" experience for us westerners to see such a variety of people
being unashamed as to how they look. Good Stuff ! |
AREN'T TURKISH BATHS "SLEAZY"?
ABSOLUTELY NOT. This is an old western perception arising, perhaps, from things
like;
• A historical, homophobic association with "Steam Baths" and the Gay Community.
• Left-over Victorian shame & prudery about undress & bathing, especially in
groups.
• "Protestant work ethic" stuff about indulging oneself.
Turkish Hamams are completely normal, family places for anyone, of any age,
to wash, relax and socialise. |
ARE THEY CLEAN?
• They’re supposed to be very clean ! And your nose will tell you if it
is ! The hamam is completely lined with marble. A good one will smell fresh from
being cleaned with brooms, hot water and chemicals daily.
• Unlike Korean Baths, Hungarian "Turkish Baths" and Thermal Springs there is NO
immersion in water at all, so you are never in someone else's water [very
offensive to Muslims].
• Liberal dousing of surfaces before use is normal and encouraged. Some local
‘fuss pots’ can be occasionally be seen scrubbing "their spot" with their own
brush and chemicals but if the chamber smells clean – it is, and this sort of
"microbe-phobic" paranoia is excessive and unnecessary. Selcuk’s Hamam is clean.
• Plastic Bath Scuffs are worn and keep one out of the water on the floor, which
is well-drained by gutters.
• All the "Pestemal" [sarongs] and towels are laundered and line-dried after
use.
• The rough, wool scrubbing glove ["Kese"] is rinsed of dead skin between
customers and does not seem to cause problems, although some people prefer to
take their own. Some baths even require this and sell cheap silk ones at
reception as part of the fee.
• If you have an infectious skin problem, then you should get professional
advice about its spread to others and whether the Hamam is a good idea. |
- It seems that about 10% comes off. You must not be
sunburned - the heat, scrubbing and massage will be too painful.
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Think ahead when you go to the beach!
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If cultivating a tan you can have your Turkish Bath(s) at the start of your
vacation! |
HOW MUCH MASSAGE WILL I GET?
• In trying to imagine what a Hamam might be like beforehand people often link
it to the closest thing they know – saunas and massages. But this is neither;
its unique. Remember this is not a massage. It is a Turkish BATH.
While they are washing you some massage is included.
• Please don’t worry ! The whole package typically leaves clients relaxed and
"floaty".
• The sad reality is that the amount of service is reducing in Touristic areas,
especially Istanbul, where some Hamams are notorious for charging tourists high
fees, demanding extra tips even when they are "included" and then providing a
disappointing "lick and a promise". In areas where tourists are rarely seen
prices are lower and service greater, as with everything! Seek out the latter!
• Just as in a restaurant - if you like your "serving" and would like some more,
"re-order"! Tell the attendant how much extra you would like in Turkish Lira
[say "daha" after the sum]. The attendant actually receives very little of what
you pay so even an extra dollar or two will add considerably to the "massage".
Put this money in the tip box OR discretely into the attendant’s hand as you
finally leave. Tips from the tip box will be divided among the staff. |
WHAT IF I FEEL TOO SICK TO GO?
Turks believe the Hamam is first-rate for colds and flu. A hot lemon and honey
drink with aspirin beforehand may enhance a "healing sweat". The all-over heat
can be great for pain and stiffness of various types too – its favourite
activity after horse riding ! HOWEVER
• People who are highly heat-intolerant may find the heat too much, even with
rests.
• People with Heart Disease should seek medical advice. Raising body
temperature by even 1 degree Celsius raises metabolism [& work demands on the
heart] by 10%. Ask your own doc!
• It is always very important for everyone to be well-hydrated beforehand and to
drink often – take 1.5 litres with you. Failure to observe this can result in
severe headache.
• Go out and cool off BEFORE the heat becomes too much. If your heart becomes
very fast & "thumpy", cold water on the face, plunging your head into a basin of
cold water, firmly massaging your carotid artery or doing the "Valsalvar
Manoevre" may relieve it. |
WHAT IF I'VE GOT MY PERIOD?
Its OK to go, but obviously not OK to make a mess! Avoid that by using tampons -
they "do the trick" very nicely ! Even if they are not normally your thing,
don't miss out on having a Hamam for the sake of a 2 hour change of habit ! In
fact there is nothing quite like lying full length on hot marble for a couple of
hours to sooth tummy, back & leg aches. It's like a giant "hot water bottle"! |
WHAT IF I'M PREGNANT?
Turkish women go to the hamam throughout pregnancy and it is not uncommon to see
very big bellies and even tiny newborns with their mums.
However, CURRENT MEDICAL UNDERSTANDING is that IN THE FIRST 16 WEEKS of
pregnancy ALL avoidable
overheating [including saunas, spas, sun-baking, fevers & strenuous exercise] is
best avoided.*
Why ? Because in GUINEA PIG EXPERIMENTS there was an increase in serious Brain &
Spinal Cord deformities.
After 16 weeks the baby's organ development is complete, undergoing maturation
and growth only. Thus, after 16 weeks, this theoretical risk is over.
However, there is equally NO evidence that there is NO risk.
SO...
1. If pregnant, or trying to be, err "on the safe side", and avoid the
hamam.
2. Discuss this issue with your Doctor or Midwife before you come to
Turkey OR use email to get their specific advice.
*This material was checked by a practising
Fellow of the Royal College of Obstetricians & Gynaecologists, Australia. [eg a
consultant specialist obstetrician] |
IS IT OK TO GO TO "MIXED" BATHS?
Please consider the following and then make your own informed decision.
Hamams come in 2 types. Some have 2 separate chambers – one for men and one for
women. These were usually built by Royalty or Rich Benefactors and are found in
towns that were wealthy in Ottoman times, like Istanbul, Bursa and Safranbolu.
Others, particularly humble buildings in small towns, have a single chamber that
traditionally has different times for men and women. In touristic areas the
Men’s sessions may now incorporate Tourist Women.
But the Hamam is traditionally a place where men and women are strictly and
utterly segregated. For 500 years single-sex chambers and attendants have been
the norm.
~100 years ago the price for breaking this rule was execution!
In the past 10 years or so, "Mixed Bathing" has arisen from the demands of
tourists, who, ignorant or inconsiderate of Turkish custom, have insisted on or
settled for "Mixed" (unisex) bathing. This trend has been further promoted by
Modern Resort Hotels building in-house unisex hamams for their own (mostly
Tourist) guests.
This practice is unthinkable among the vast majority of Turks.
To see it through their eyes, forget about now - take yourself back to the
western morality of the 50's and 60’s - before "living together" was generally
acceptable.
Imagine your mother telling your grandparents (or even a young person today
telling her friends) that she was going to the Football Club Rooms to take a
shower with the team. Another example would be women using Male Public Toilets.
The probable reaction gives you an idea of the general Turkish attitude toward
Mixed Bathing.
As it is incomprehensible that men go to the female baths, tourist women have
been incorporated into male ones.
Mixed Bathing has been very bad for the image of foreign women.
Extremely few Turkish women would even dream of going to one.
Women who go to mixed public baths are generally seen as amoral, as are the men
who accompany them. Thus women going to a mixed bath, even with a male escort at
her side, have real potential to be misunderstood and to attract unwanted
attention from some men.
However, just because a local man is present in a mixed bath does NOT mean he
has dishonorable intentions or is a sleazy pervert out to get cheap thrills,
although some answering that description can suddenly appear in the hamam once
word gets around that there are foreign women in the Hamam.
Whether you "care" about this or not, your presence in a male session can
inconvenience others:
Sometimes people ask us if there is "Men Only" time as well. Usually there isn’t
and maybe there should be. It seems that men have to "put up with" tourist women
in their sessions whether they like it or not. Men may have no idea that women
are present until they are inside and may be extremely embarrassed or offended -
to the point of leaving. One young man told us that when there are Tourist Women
in the Male hamam, he keeps his back turned to them the whole time so as not to
disrespect them or cause them discomfort. Another man we know leaves altogether.
Why should they be put in this position?
Other effects of Tourist Women attending Mixed (Men's) Baths:
To be fair, Tourism is not the only factor to effect hamams. But it does
contribute to reduced demand for Women's Baths - with deleterious effects in
many communities. Closure [as in Bergama] and drastically reduced hours [eg
Selcuk] has resulted in:
• Far less choice for Turkish and foreign women who want "female-only service".
• Turkish women losing their jobs in hamams.
• Turkish women losing opportunities to enjoy a social, traditional, healthy
part of their own culture. Many Turkish women have never been to a hamam!
So this is not about morality, modesty, "right" or "wrong".
Its much more "far-reaching" than that.
IF You Prefer "Women-Only" Services
YOU ARE NOT ALONE! - from our
observation, the vast majority [~80%] of Foreign women actively want this and
refuse mixed bathing. The staff at Selcuk Hamam were astonished to hear this -
they thought that all foreign women didn't care. Most women who come with us to
"Ladies Only" sessions love the "women only" aspect and cannot imagine it any
other way [see "OUR CUSTOMERS SAY..."]
DO SOMETHING!
PATRONISE THEM! ASK FOR THEM!
If you care about these issues ask for "Sadece Bayanlar Için" [For Women Only]
wherever you see a hamam. This could be an act of cultural restoration and
conservation: if enough Tourists ask often enough, maybe the lure of the dollar
might restore availability. This would benefit everyone: tourists, female bath
workers and local women.
NB Sometimes Hamams may be willing to "Close to the Public" so groups of tourist
women can bath "discretely" but the staff may still be male. Be clear about
exactly what is being offered. |
WHAT OUR CUSTOMERS SAID...
We have a book where customers leave messages about Selcuk Tourism for
those who will follow. We have reproduced the "Hamam" ones here. Repeated
descriptions of procedure, already covered, have been edited out. Please note
that the nudity often mentioned is always OPTIONAL in female baths – you cover
up (or not) as much as you wish!
What the Girls Said...
"A definate 'must do' if you are a lady and fortunate enough to be here on
Women Only day. We were almost rejected at first because they thought we were
men ! But after stripping down to nothing and entering the steaming hot bathing
room we were in HEAVEN ! We received the complete package consisting of a
vigorous scrub down with a "kese" glove followed by a heavenly soapy wash and
massage. We spent 2.5 hours in pure bliss washing each other's hair, receiving
numerous massages (from each other) and slothfully lying on the gobek tasi
(Belly stone)...You will leave feeling as clean as you have ever felt. A truly
amazing experience ! Thanks ...."
Belinda and Clare, Brisbane
"Today 4 of us went to the hamam for 2 hours of complete luxury ! It was so
nice to do nothing but soak up the heat...A great day which is worth every
single lira ! So much better that it is "female only' on fridays. Don't miss
this one - you won't find it any better..."
Anna. NZ
"In all we had a wonderful time in Selcuk but the best of all was the
hamam. Its a wonderful experience I don't think anyone should miss. At first we
were really shy and embarrassed to go in, but after a while we totally relaxed
and had a great time. I must say that its a shame that Female Only time is only
one afternoon per week. We could never imagine going in with men in the room.
Its a personal, private heaven that women should share together, instead of
mixed. We've never felt so squeaky clean and relaxed in all our lives. Don't be
bashful - you'll miss out on an experience of a lifetime. Enjoy !"
Amberlyn and Linda, Alberta
"Before Turkish Bath: very apprehensive at first and needed a lot of
convincing... After Turkish Bath: squeaky clean, refreshed. relaxed and more
knowledgeable about one aspect of Turkish Life. I really enjoyed myself and am
glad that I had the chance to go with (2 other women), I went on a friday and it
was all about women, women, women. It was a fullfilling experience and I will
always remember. Thank you!"
Diana, USA
"The hamam is women's business; sharing, washing, talking and relaxing. It is
a very interesting look at a very old Turkish custom and a bonding experience
for all women...Thank you so much for showing me how to participate; I would not
have missed this."
Denise, Sydney
"The hamam is a wonderful experience. The women of Selcuk are friendly
and gracious to guests. Don't miss this experience - I stayed 2 weeks so I could
do it twice !"
Virginia, Texas
"The hamam was a highlight of my trip to Turkey. I went with girls only and
it was so relaxing. You sit around naked with complete strangers and don't even
think twice. I felt cleaner than I have ever felt - my skin squeaked !"
Kari, California
"I had never been naked in company in all my life and I got in there and I
didn’t think twice...it was absolutely fine. My daughter is a "big girl" and a
very private person and she was completely comfortable..."
Name withheld – advice given by one
woman to another who was feeling too shy to go, but eventually did
"Five of us girls went off to experience a Turkish bath, all of us a little
nervous, not quite knowing what to expect...I wore underwear but decided to bare
all. It was great and a very different experience. Before the bath we were all a
bit modest but now we are all great bosom buddies ! It was the highlight of my
trip. It was great how the women looked after each other* - it made it more
special"
[* washing each other's hair, rinsing each
other after soapy wash-massage etc]
Danielle, Megan, Penny, Virginia & Louise
"We had a Turkish bath today at 12.30 and here I am at 10.00 pm still totally
relaxed! Its an experience not to be missed! I was a little shy at first but as
soon as I got in there... modesty was out the window! Don't leave Selcuk
without doing it!"
Manda, Sydney
"You must go to the Friday afternoon Women Only Session at the Hamam. Do not
go to the mixed session. It is culturally unacceptable and you will not be able
to get a full body massage and wash, nor will you be able to decadently wallow
around in the heat, lying flat out naked on the fine marble bench. By doing the
Women Only Session you will have a much more relaxing, richer experience and you
will be supporting these single sex sessions which are in danger of dying out
due to a perceived lack of demand (particularly created by too many tourists
attending mixed sessions). It is a wonderful experience. Your skin will feel
like silk, your muscles will be completely relaxed, you’ll feel calm, exhausted
and want to do nothing for the rest of the day. Plus you’ll have an excellent
night’s sleep"
Sue, Sheffield & Hong Kong
"(After a bad experience in a mixed hamam, with my boyfriend present,
followed by a wonderful experience in Istanbul) I can only recommend that women
go to the designated Ladies days with a woman attendant. It makes for a much
better experience."
Donna, Brisbane
"The Turkish Bath, I must say, has been one of my most enjoyed experiences in
Turkey. I knew that I wanted to try one – but was unsure about the Turkish males
that may have been in the bath or scrubbing me. I was uncertain if I was being
sucked into a touristy gimmick place. I had no idea what would happen -–but I
wanted to try one... It helped to have Bron to go with to explain what to do
when we got there – because it is a completely foreign experience. The bath here
in Selcuk I would recommend to all travellers who are keen to try... When
first going in it is almost suffocating with its thick moist air and heat.
However after becoming accustomed to (it) I relaxed & completely enjoyed myself.
So many local Turkish women of all ages, shapes and sizes came to be scrubbed
and scrub each other – something I have never seen in my society & culture –
complete comfort with nudity (although for the modest - like myself – I started
in the sarong but ended up wearing only swimmer bottoms). I have never felt so
clean, relaxed and healthy as I did after the bath. I floated back to the Hotel
and enjoyed a salep* !!!"
[* a sweet Turkish drink]
Jane, Brisbane |
What
the Boys Said...
"It seems that not many guys have written about the going to the hamam.
Because of this I wasn’t sure whether to go and if I did what would happen. But
if you get the chance – GO ! Its fantastic – really relaxing and the crud and
dead skin that come off is disgusting but makes you feel really, really clean. A
mate and I were in there for about 1.5 hours...I must admit that, after going, I
am a bit of an advocate for single sex bathing. A few minutes after going into
the bath some women came in. It’s not that it made us guys want to perve or
anything but it really changes the dynamic of the place from a relaxing blokey
sort of place to one where you suddenly have to be aware of sarong placement..."
Julian, Australia
"Today I had a Turkish Bath and I must say the experience was wonderful. What
a great way to finish off my holiday. Well worth the money."
David, England
"A Turkish Bath is best enjoyed by having a shave beforehand. It really opens
up the facial pores and enables you to really clean your face. The bath itself
is a quite vigorous massage and I highly recommend the experience"
Keiran, Queensland
"Excellent and well worthwhile. I was a bit nervous beforehand but I came out
very satisfied, very relaxed and very clean. One of life’s truly great
experiences... You come out cleaner and smoother than you’ve been since you were
one year old."
unsigned
We have noticed that women seem to be better at
the self-indulgence thing than men, who tend to bolt once the service is over.
We recommend that you try to go in a group – Hamam’s are as much a social event
as a wash! Turkish women sometimes take picnic baskets and favourite drinks with
which to while away the hours! |
A HOTBED of TRADITION!
DEFINATELY NOT JUST A PLACE TO GET
CLEAN!
Hamams were hugely important places until modern plumbing became widespread -
refusing to provide Bath Money to one’s wife was sufficient grounds for divorce
! They were at the centre of society and feature in FOLK LORE. For example,
hamams are traditionally the dwelling places of "DJINNS" [genies] who were said
to lurk in its dark corners and come out after closing to play cirit [javelin].
Characters in Folktales sometimes had to go alone at night to the empty Hamam,
the scary equivilent of going to graveyards, desolate castles & dark woods in
Western Fairytales.
[Ref: "The Art of the Turkish Tale" by Barbara
K. Walker]
Just as today, people had their own sets of HAMAM ACCESSORIES which were common
Trousseau Items and gifts. The poor had copper, tin, brass and cotton while
wealthy people had silver, gold and silk.
Luxurious embroidered Pestemals, Bath Slippers inlaid with Mother-of-Pearl,
metal soap dishes with handled lids and beautiful hand-made bowls - some with a
spinning articulated metal fish on a central spike - can still be seen in
Antique Shops and museums. |
OLD BATH STORIES!
We love these old accounts of the place of the Hamam in Ottoman society – we
hope you enjoy them too!
LADY MARY WORTLEY MONTAGU:
The Turkish Embassy Letters [aka
"Letters from the Levent"]
This wonderful letter was written on the 10 April 1718. Lady Mary Wortley
Montagu, wife of the English Ambassador, lived in Istanbul for several years and
was remarkable for her open-minded, unprejudiced attitudes and observations. AND
she had access to the wrold of women - denied to male travel writers.
The whole book is an absolutely fascinating glimpse into life in Upper Class
Istanbul hundreds of years ago...
A 'HEN's NIGHT' IN THE HAMAM
...Turkish ladies are perhaps more free than any ladies in the universe, and are
the only women in the world that lead a life of uninterrupted pleasure, exempt
from cares; their whole time being spent in visiting, bathing or the agreeable
amusement of spending money and inventing new fashions..... It is true they have
no places but the bagnios, and these can only be seen by their own sex; however,
that is a diversion they take great pleasure in.
I was three days ago at one of the finest in the town, and had the opportunity
of seeing a Turkish bride received there, and all the ceremony used on that
occasion, which made me recollect 'The Epithalamium of Helen' by Theocritus: and
it seems to me, that the same customs have continued ever since.
All the she friends, relations, and acquaintance of the two families, newly
allied, meet at the bagnio; several others go out of curiousity, and I believe
there were that day two hundred women. Those that were or had been married
placed themselves round the rooms on the marble sofas: but the virgins very
hastily threw off their clothes, and appeared without other ornament or covering
than their own long hair braided with pearl or ribbon. Two of them met the bride
at the door, conducted by her mother and another grave relation. She was a
beautiful maid of about seventeen, very richly dressed, and shining with jewels,
but was presently reduced to the state of nature. Two others filled silver gilt
pots with perfume, and began the procession, the rest following in pairs, to the
number of thirty. The leaders sung an epithalamium, answered by the others in
chorus, and the two last led the fair bride, her eyes fixed on the ground, with
a charming affectation of modesty. In this order they marched round the three
largest rooms of the bagnio. It is not easy to represent to you the beauty of
this sight, most of them being well proportioned and white skinned; all of them
perfectly smooth and polished by the frequent use of bathing. After having made
their tour, the bride was again led to every matron round the rooms, who saluted
her with a compliment and a present, some of jewels, others of pieces of stuff,
handkerchiefs, or little gallantries of that nature, which she thanked them for,
by kissing their hands. I was very well pleased with having seen this
ceremony...
When she first entered Turkey, Lady Mary wasted no time entering a Hamam,
just for a look...
"In one of these covered wagons, I went to the bagnio about ten o’clock. It was
already full of women. It is built of stone in the shape of a dome, with no
windows but in the roof which gives light enough. There was five of these domes
joined together, the outmost being less than the rest and serving only as a
hall, where the portress stood at the door. Ladies of quality generally give
this woman the value of a crown or ten shillings and I did not forget that
ceremony. The next room is a very large one paved with marble, and all round it
raised two sofas of marble one above another. There were four fountains of cold
water in this room, falling first into marble basins, and then running on the
floor in little channels made for that purpose, which carried the streams into
the next room, something less than this, with the same sort of marble sofas, but
so hot with steams of sulphur proceeding from the baths joining to it, ‘twas
impossible to stay there with one’s clothes on. The two other domes were the hot
baths, one of which had cocks of cold water turning into it to temper it to what
degree of warmth the bathers have a mind to.
It was my travelling habit, which is a riding dress, and certainly appeared very
extraordinary to them. Yet there was not one of them that showed the least
surprise or impertinent curiosity, but received me with all the obliging
civility possible. I know no European court where the ladies would have behaved
themselves in so polite a manner to a stranger. I believe, in the whole, there
were two hundred women, and yet none of those disdainful smiles or satirical
whispers that never fail in our assemblies when anybody appears that is not
dressed exactly in fashion. They repeated over and over to me; "Guzelle, pek
guzelle", which is nothing but "charming, very charming". The first sofas were
covered with cushions and rich carpets on which sat that ladies and on the
second their slaves behind them, but without any distinction of rank by their
dress, all being in the state of nature, that is, in plain English, stark naked
without any beauty or defect concealed. Yet there was not the least wanton smile
or immodest gesture amongst them. They walked and moved with the same majestic
grace which Milton describes of our general mother*. There were many amongst
them as exactly proportioned as ever any goddess was drawn by the pencil of
Guido or Titian, and most of their skins shiningly white, only adorned by the
beautiful hair divided into many tresses, hanging on their shoulders, braided
either with pearl or ribbon, perfectly representing the figures of the Graces.
I was here convinced of the truth of a reflection I had often made, that if it
was the fashion to go naked, the face would be hardly observed. I perceived that
the ladies with finest skins and most delicate shapes had the greatest share of
my admiration, though the faces were sometimes less beautiful than those of
their companions. To tell you the truth, I had wickedness enough to wish
secretly that Mr Gervase could have been there invisible. I fancy it would have
very much improved his art to see so many fine women naked, in different
postures, some in conversation, some working, others drinking coffee or sherbet,
and many negligently lying on their cushions while their slaves (generally
pretty girls of seventeen or eighteen) were employed in braiding their hair in
several pretty manners. In short, ‘tis the women’s coffee house, where all the
news of the town is told, scandal invented, etc. They generally take this
diversion once a week, and stay there at least four or five hours, without
getting cold by immediate coming out of the hot bath into the cool room, which
was very surprising to me. The lady that seemed the most considerable amongst
them entreated me to sit by her and would fain have undressed me for the bath. I
excused myself with some difficulty, they being however all so earnest in
persuading me, I was at last forced to open my shirt, and show them my stays,
which satisfied them very well, for I saw they believed I was so locked up in
that machine, that it was not in my own power to open it, which contrivance they
attributed to my husband. I was charmed with their civility and beauty, and
should have been very glad to pass more time with them, but Mr Wortley resolving
to pursue his journey the next morning early I was in haste to see the ruins of
Justinian’s church, which did not afford me so agreeable a prospect as I had
left, being little more than a heap of stones.
Adieu, madam, I am sure I have now entertained you with an account of such a
sight as you never saw in your life, and what no book of travels could inform
you of, as ‘tis no less than death for a man to be found in one of these
places."
Eve |
"THE HAMAM TRICK"
Baron W. Wratislaw, who came to Istanbul in 1591 accompanying the Austrian
Embassy delegation from Vienna, witnessed how an Ottoman woman could be very
shrewd if she wanted a man, and he noted this event in his diary:
Mustafa had once met a lady and he invited her to the Embassy, so I prepared
delicious desserts and bought the best wine for this occasion. I used to like
him because he was originally a Bohemian and he was always nice and polite to
me. Mustafa's lover had an extremely jealous elderly husband who never trusted
his wife, and he followed her everywhere she went. But who could stop a woman
who was determined to deceive her husband? Of course nobody. She used the Hamam
Trick and managed to attend her rendezvous.
She told her husband that it was time for the hamam and with two of her slaves
walking behind her and carrying bundles on their heads, she headed for
Cemberlitas hamam. [This hamam was built by one of the Sultan's legal wifes
Ruska Sultan.] The hamam was very close to the Embassy and as she was walking by
she made a sign to Mustafa which meant she would attend the invitation on time.
At that time of the day Cemberlitas hamam was only at ladies disposal and no man
could enter unless he wanted to commit suicide. Her husband, who was green in
the eye, saw her entering the hamam and situated himself in a suitable corner to
wait for his wife.
In the meantime, his wife was changing her green outfit for a red one which was
in her bundle. Leaving her slaves in the hamam she rushed out and found herself
in Mustafa's room. Greeting her happily, Mustafa, who was generous in his
hospitality, entertained her very well. After the party she went back to the
hamam, washed off her sins and returned home with her husband.
This little trick of hers always made us burst into laughter... Whenever we
recalled that event. [with Mustafa]
ERDOGAN, Sema: "Sexual Life in Ottoman Society" |
An Autocrat at the Hamam
Now and then, usually about once in a week, my grandmother had a sociable turn
of mind and when these moods came upon her she invariably went to the Hamam.
Hamams, or Turkish Baths, were hot-beds of gossip and scandal-mongering,
snobbery in its most inverted form and the excuse for every woman in the
district to have a day out. Nobody ever dreamed of taking a bath in anything
under seven or eight hours. The young girls went to show off their
pink-and-white bodies to the older women. Usually the mothers of eligbible sons
were in their minds for this purpose for these would, it was to be hoped, take
the first opportunity of detailing to their sons the finer points of So-and-so's
naked body. Marriages based on such hearsay quite frequently took place, but
whether or not they were successful few of us had any means of knowing.
In the hot rooms of the Hamams little jealousies and rivalries were fanned into
strong fires and very often fights took place between the mothers of attractive
daughters vieing for the favours of the same young man.
As against the mothers of daughters, the mothers of sons took pride of place.
There was a sort of sharp dividing line drawn between them and it was quite easy
for a stranger to tell which of the plump, matronly ladies had the best wares
for sale. For whereas the mothers of daughters were inclined to laugh a lot, to
draw attention to their family groups, the mothers of sons lay aloof on their
divans - too conscious of their own superiority to contribute to the general
noise and scandalising. They would lazily nibble fruit, eye the simpering,
posturing young girls critically and sometimes accept the offer of having their
backs washed by some ravishing young creature but with such condescension that
immediately the wildest speculations were engendered in the other female breasts
as to why such an obvious favour had been shown at all. The back-washing
concluded, the ravishing young creature would be dismissed and one by one the
mothers of the ignored daughters would sidle up to the devilish old autocrat who
had just had her back washed and whisper the most damning things about the
character of the recent, elated, now vanished back-washer.
"Portrait of a Turkish Family": Irfan Orga [Eland]
DID YOU KNOW?
The Turkish word for COCKROACH is "HAMAM BOGEGI" or "Hamam Insect"?
[We’ve never seen one in a hamam – its because
they like water and drains !] |
Temples to The Body
"TURKISH BATHS"
*By Emel Çelebi *Photos Çetin Korkmaz
The Turkish bath or hamam is an atmospheric world all its own in the midst of
the modern bustling city. Everyone who sets foot in here surrenders to the water
in a voluntary form of captivity, for the process of purification of not just
the body but also the soul.
Upon entering the door you find yourself in the camekan, a hall lined with
changing cubicles. In an old-fashioned hamam this is the most impressive part,
with a drinking fountain in the centre or sometimes a marble pool with a water
jet. Before your encounter with water can start you must undress in one of the
cubicles and wrap your body in a cotton or silk bathing cloth known as a
pestimal. Then you are ready to go into the bath, which is reached through an
antechamber called the so?ukluk where there is a room for shaving, lavatories
and a tea stall selling beverages.
When the door to the bath proper, known as the sicaklik or harrare, opens you
find yourself in a high room filled with the sound of splashing water, the scent
of soap, and wafting steam through which daily concerns and worries cannot
penetrate. In the gentle moist heat your body relaxes, and your nerves are
soothed. You sit down at one of the marble wash basins which line the walls, and
adjusting the temperature of the water to a delicious warmth, dip the copper
bathing bowl into the basin and tip the water over your head and body. Waves of
relaxation seem to pour right through you as the water ripples down.
From the score or more tiny circular glass lights in the dome an enchanted
luminous light filters down into the bath. The long narrow rays pierce through
the dim heights of the dome and play all day long on the stone platform known as
the göbek ta?y in the centre of the room.
When you have finished washing stretch out on this platform, which is heated
from beneath. Soon the heat will have opened the pores in your skin, and the
bath attendant [known as a natyr in a women's bath and a tellak in the male
establishment] will come along carrying a bath glove made of coarse raw silk.
Entrust your body to their skilled hands as they vigorously rub away the layer
of dead skin, then soap and rinse you well. If asked they will go on to give you
a massage. After being kneaded from top to toe on top of the relaxing effect of
all that hot water you naturally begin to feel delightfully sleepy. The Spanish
writer Juan Goytisolo describes this as a state of unimaginable bliss, and says
that when he came out of the hamam his body which had been 'taken to pieces and
put together again, soaped from head to foot, rinsed, dried, and relieved of
tension' felt like wearing a new suit of clothes.
Baths served as health centres among the ancient Greeks and have been an
important part of daily life in Istanbul since Roman and Byzantine times. Under
the Romans, Byzantines baths were more than places to wash, but social clubs
where people met their friends and conversed or argued over politics. Like
hippodromes and theatres they were places where people gathered to enjoy
themselves. This social aspect of the bath continued into Ottoman times, when
large numbers of hamams were constructed all over the empire. Now people
gathered together either in the Turkish bath or in coffee houses.
The ritual of the weekly expedition to the bath house involved elaborate
preparations. Only the rich could afford the luxury of a private hamam supplied
with hot running water attached to their homes, so the majority of families went
to the public baths. For women, in particular, whose lives were confined to
their homes, families, visits to neighbours and shopping, a day spent at the
bath was an entertaining occasion to be looked forward to from week to week. The
women and children of the family, perhaps with their friends or neighbours, set
out early in the morning for the neighbourhood bath carrying their bundles of
clean clothes and a picnic of stuffed vegetables, pickles, savoury pastries and
sherbet. After spending a leisurely morning washing, this delicious food
prepared the previous day was spread out in the antechamber. The remainder of
the day would be spent dressing the hair, napping and chatting, and then towards
sundown the party would make its way home.
The seclusion of women which was practised so strictly in Ottoman towns and
cities was reflected in the architecture of the hamam. Naturally it was
unthinkable that men and women should bathe together, so either baths catered
entirely for one of the sexes, or large double baths known as çifte hamam were
built with separate sections for men and women. The men's section of the latter
had a large ornate entrance opening onto the main street, while the women's
section had a plain one opening modestly onto a side street.
The 17th century Turkish traveller and writer Evliya Çelebi recorded that there
were 151 hamams in Istanbul. A bath house was a lucrative source of income,
which may explain why so many were built. Their consumption of water and fire
wood for the furnace rose to such heights that in the 18th century the
government took measures to restrict their numbers.
Let us take a brief look at some of the most notable of Istanbul's Turkish
baths. The oldest in the city is the Irgat Hamam built during the reign of
Mehmed the Conqueror (1451-1481), while the only hamam to have been built on the
foundations of an earlier Byzantine bath is Yildiz Dede Hamam in Bahcekapi. One
of the most magnificent of all hamams is the 16th century Haseki Hurrem Sultan
Hamam situated between Haghia Sophia and Sultan Ahmed Mosque. This hamam is no
longer in use, instead housing a carpet shop. Excavations nearby revealed the
remains of the famous Byzantine Zeuksippos Bath.
Just past the great underground cistern known as Yerebatan Sarayi is Cagaloglu
Hamam, whose baroque architecture and bath "tours" with belly dancing and dinner
inclusive have made it a popular tourist attraction. This hamam was built in
1741, the last to be built before the construction of large hamams was
prohibited in 1768. Cemberlitas Hamam on Divanyolu was built by the celebrated
Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan in 1584 and is famous for its interior decoration.
Part of the camekan of the women's section of this hamam was knocked down to
make way for a road during the reign of Sultan Abdulaziz (1860-1876). A hamam of
historic importance which is still in use today is Galatasaray Hamam in Beyoglu.
This hamam was constructed in 1715 for men only, although later on a small
women's section was added. It is also unique as the only hamam in Istanbul to
have been awarded a certificate by the Ministry of Tourism. However, it is not
unique in having a website. You may be as surprised as I was to learn that most
of these large hamams are on the Internet.
The dizzying speed of modern life has made the leisurely hamam bath a luxury few
can spare time for today. But there are still some Turkish people who go
regularly for "a real bath". Next time you are in Istanbul and want to feel that
lightness of being which only a Turkish bath can impart, then take time out from
sightseeing for a few hours and head for the nearest hamam.
* Emel Çelebi is a journalist. |
WOMEN !
Spoil Yourself ! Join Us for a
"LADIES ONLY" TURKISH BATH
FRIDAYS, NOON - 04:00 PM
~ We Can Take A Group ~
Tickets available from reception
NOT TO BE MISSED ! |
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