Jimmys Place - Selcuk (Ephesus), Turkey

THE TURKISH BATH

Turkey is now a modern country straddling both the Middle East & Europe.
Much of its picturesque "oriental" past has been replaced with the familiarity of the West.
But traces do remain and one tradition, possibly one of the most significant, continues....

~ HAMAM ~

The Turkish Bath

Artemis Guest House - Hamam Definitely one of "The Good Things in Life" - "up there" with massage, having your hair washed and good sex - having a Turkish Bath is a sensual delight and good for you too - you will be amazed at how clean, smooth and silky you are afterwards !

Take the opportunity to treat yourself to an exotic and age-old tradition that is almost impossible to find outside Turkey.

Selcuk has a hamam 2 minutes walk from Jimmy's Place.

Hamam Times:

Men's and mixed 7 am - 11 pm daily

Women only Friday noon - 4.00 pm

At other times we organise special private women's sessions
(Conditions apply) ~ Please Ask ~

A beginners guide
So, what happens ?
Burning Questions
Girl Talk ...
What our customers said...
- What the girls said
- What the boys said
A Hotbed of tradition !
Old Bath stories !

~ A BEGINNERS GUIDE ~

Turkish Baths, or "Hamams", vary in their size, age, quality, fees and beauty.
In Ottoman times, in cities such as Bursa and Istanbul, Hamams were commissioned by Members of the Royal Family & designed by the finest architects with no expense spared. Utterly beautiful in their design and decoration it is a luxurious and often costly experience to visit one.

Less illustrious hamams are plain, even humble structures but similarly steeped in history. The size of a hamam and whether it has 2 sections for men and women gives clues as to the former posperity of its town. Many are ~ 500 years old !

Hamams were not simply places to wash either – they were at the epi-centre of society and had important social functions as well - see "Bath stories".

SO, WHAT HAPPENS ?

TO "GET YOUR MONEY's WORTH" and NOT HAVE TO RUSH, ALLOW 2+ HOURS

RECEPTION

On arrival you enter a reception area and are greeted by a staff member - probably wearing only a "Pestemal" (sarong, pron. "Pesh-te-mul") ! Traditionally Gypsies work in Hamams. You will be shown the Price List, given a "Pestemal" wrap and plastic bath scuffs and shown where to change and leave your things. It is advisable to leave your money belt, valuable papers, jewelry and money etc in your hotel’s Safe Deposit Box and to take only the fee with you.

The "Pestemal" (sarong, pron. "Pesh-te-mahl") provided is a modesty bath wrap and goes around the waist (men & women) or underarms (women).
Men – you may wear underpants under your pestemal - or not – but nudity is always forbidden in male baths.
Women –
Women's Only Baths with female staff – custom varies in different hamams. After asking the bath for its "norm", "bare as much as you dare" ! If nudity is permitted, it's recommend, but some people prefer underwear or bikini – do as you please !
"Mixed" baths with Male staff - wear a full swim suit and pestemal. Only remove your wrap for hamam service.
The plastic scuffs are compulsory: to stop you from slipping on the soapy marble floor and cracking your head on the same: Sultan Selim II actually was killed this way ! The writer, Bron, has witnessed a barefoot woman knocked unconscious by such a fall.
Hang up all your clothes on the hooks or, if a gym locker is provided, there - leave the couches completely bare for lying down later.
Either a locker or an individual safe deposit box should be available. Lock up your fee money, spectacles, watch etc and keep the key.
As security is usually by simple key only, it is advisable to leave your money belt, valuable papers, valuable jewelry and large sums of money etc in your hotel’s Safe Deposit Box and to take only the fee with you.

INSIDE

You pass through cool rooms, with "squat toilets" nearby, to the inner Bath Chamber - a vaulted, domed room made of pale marble. Small glass circles or stars pepper the dome to admit beams of subtle light.

This inner-most room’s temperature varies from day to day: from easy warmth through to extremely hot ! Some large baths have several rooms where the degree of heat varies and patrons can choose the one that suits them best.

In the centre of the main, hottest room is a large marble platform - usually circular or octagonal - heated from below by a furnace. Named the "Göbek Tasi" (Pron. "Gerbek Tah Shuh", Belly Stone), this is where the relaxing, sweating and often the bath service take place. This stone also varies in its heat - move around to identify the "hot spots" !

Because this is a place of relaxation, it is good manners to be "low-key" in the bath – no raucous, loud talk.

Take everything you normally use under the shower inside with you.
Put these near a marble basin, which then becomes "yours".
But if demand is great you will have to share. Unless you have the bath to yourselves, friends should share. Typically friends & family gather around basins & share them and you should too – Turkish Bathing is very much a social event !!
Fill the basin with water of your favoured temperature.
These communal basins ONLY ever contain fresh, clean water - never put soap or suds etc in them.
Use a bowl to scoop water over yourself until wet all over - hair too.
These "Ompholos" bowls are of ancient design and have an comfortable indentation in the centre for your fingers - and head ! When you are lying down upturn it to make a "pillow" !
Wash your "rear" and genitals yourself.
There are private areas to do this, if desired.
Everything else will be washed later by the attendant !
Leave shampooing until last - to wash away the plain Hamam soap !
Wet a vacant area of the marble platform.
This stops you from sticking to the stone and helps you to slip, skate and slide effortlessly while lying down !
Lie down and relax, turning regularly.
If the bath is busy it is polite to put your head into the middle of the platform and your feet at the edge, occupying a space rather like a slice of pie. Lying parallel to the edge takes up a lot of space.
Whenever hot and sticky, re-wet yourself and the Marble.
It is NOT an endurance test: you are there to enjoy yourself and relax !
Drink regularly and go out for cooling "rests" whenever you feel the need. Plastic drink bottles are safe, whereas glass ones have the potential to break. Enter the hamam well-hydrated and take a further 1.5 litres of water.

THE SERVICE

Artemis Guest House - Hamam

An attendant will tap you to tell you "its your turn".
Lie parallel to and close to the edge of the Marble Platform (as in picture).
Bare yourself as much as you are comfortable to do so. The maximum possible level of modesty should be observed by women in mixed baths; meaning a minimum of a swimsuit and probably a sarong as well.
You will be exfoliated all over with a rough wool or silk glove ("kese", pron "Kesseh"). Don’t worry – it’s nice – like being scratched ! But if the attendant is being a bit too vigorous just say "YAH-VAH-SH" (Yavas - take it easy).
Afterwards, use the Scoop Bowl to rinse off the grey "worms" of dead skin - from both your person and the marble - Otherwise it will "cook" on ! Another person's sweat, suds and exfoliated skin is considered to be filth, to be avoided at all costs. Always be very careful not splash other people .
Again you will be tapped to be washed with creamy Soapsuds. Some massage is included while they wash you, although the amount is reducing, especially in Touristic areas. Just as in a restaurant - if you liked your serving and would like some more, re-order ! Tell the attendant how much extra you would like in Turkish Lira. The attendant usually receives very little of what you pay so even an extra dollar or two should add considerably to the "massage". In men’s baths its can be a bit macho – "how much can you take" sort of thing and tourists probably get extra ! If it is too strong, say "YAH-VAH-SH" (take it easy).
Allow yourself to be ushered back to your basin to rinse. It is nice to have this done for you as one can be a bit "wobbly" after such pampering ! In some baths your hair will be washed. If not, you can also ask for this as part of your "tip". Many women was each other’s hair as a treat. Whichever – ask someone else to do it.
This is the completion of the service. You may either lie down and relax for as long as you like or go outside to the change room area, dry off and rest there.

FINISHING

In the change area you will be given dry towels.
Stack your plastic scuffs neatly and give your wet linen to the attendant.
When dry, lie down, relax and "acclimatise" before going out.
PLAN TO RELAX FOR THE REST OF THE DAY (Hamams are the perfect "activity" before a flight or an overnight bus trip !)
ALLOW 1 - 4 HOURS

"THE BURNING QUESTIONS"

(Everything You Want to Know but were Afraid to Ask... ?! )

WHAT SHOULD I TAKE ?

Everything you use in an ordinary shower: Shampoo & conditioner PLUS optional soap, face cleanser, razor etc
Anything you use after a shower: Skincare products, deodorant, hair dryer etc
Clean clothes (and, in cooler months, a warm garment for the walk home).
The fee in Turkish Lira
A bottle of water: BE WELL-HYDRATED BEFORE YOU GO.
Small Camera ? NEVER take photos without the full consent of everyone present.

DO I HAVE TO BE NAKED ?

NO. Men must always wear the waist-wrap/sarong, even when washing. No option.

Women can choose - underarm sarong, waist sarong, underpants, bikinis, nude. Some hamams do not allow nudity at all - do as the locals do.

In Public "Mixed" Baths, women should observe the highest possible level of modesty: a swimsuit as a minimum, perhaps a sarong as well.
Deluxe Tourist Resort Hotels (especially in places like Marmaris and Bodrum) may have nude mixed bathing. This is in no way traditional and the baths will probably be ultra modern in appearance too. Be sure to hunt out a traditional experience as well...

BUT I FEEL SHY ....

You're not the only one ! Most people are nervous before their first Hamam – its a new and unknown experience - but once inside, most settle down very quickly & never feel nervous again !
Wear what makes you feel comfortable - you are there to enjoy yourself !
You always wash your genitals and "rear" yourself.
Private areas for washing are usually available; you can also turn your back to the room for increased privacy.
"Single sex bathing" can further reduce this particular stress and is encouraged for many reasons. See our special section "Girl Talk".

DON'T WORRY ! BE HAPPY

You won't be the FATTEST, THINNEST, PUNY-EST, SAGGIEST, OLDEST, YOUNGEST, WHITEST, MOST STRETCH-MARKED etc in the Hamam ! The whole community - from babies to the elderly - use the hamam simultaneously and the relaxed, accepting attitude of the locals will help you to feel comfortable too. In fact, it is a good, "healthy" experience for us westerners to see such a variety of people being unashamed as to how they look. Good Stuff !

AREN'T TURKISH BATHS "SLEAZY" ?

ABSOLUTELY NOT.
This is an old western perception arising, perhaps, from things like

A historical, homophobic association with "Steam Baths" and the Gay Community
Left-over Victorian shame & prudery about undress & bathing, especially in groups
"Protestant work ethic" stuff about indulging oneself.

Turkish Hamams are completely normal, family places for anyone, of any age, to wash, relax and socialise.

ARE THEY CLEAN ?

They’re supposed to be very clean ! And your nose will tell you if it is ! The hamam is completely lined with marble. A good one will smell fresh from being cleaned with brooms, hot water and chemicals daily.
Unlike Korean Baths, Hungarian "Turkish Baths" and Thermal Springs there is NO immersion in water at all, so you are never in someone else's water (very offensive to Muslims).
Liberal dousing of surfaces before use is normal and encouraged. Some local ‘fuss pots’ can be occasionally be seen scrubbing "their spot" with their own brush and chemicals but if the chamber smells clean – it is, and this sort of "microbe-phobic" paranoia is excessive and unnecessary. Selcuk’s Hamam is clean.
Plastic Bath Scuffs are worn and keep one out of the water on the floor, which is well-drained by gutters.
All the "Pestemal" (sarongs) and towels are laundered and line-dried after use.
The rough, wool scrubbing glove ("Kese") is rinsed of dead skin between customers and does not seem to cause problems, although some people prefer to take their own. Some baths even require this and sell cheap silk ones at reception as part of the fee.
If you have an infectious skin problem, then you should get professional advice about its spread to others and whether the Hamam is a good idea.

WILL I LOSE MY TAN ?

It seems that about 10% comes off. You must not be sunburned - the heat, scrubbing and massage will be too painful. Think ahead when you go to the beach !
If cultivating a tan you can have your Turkish Bath(s) at the start of your vacation !

HOW MUCH MASSAGE WILL I GET ?

In trying to imagine what a Hamam might be like beforehand people often link it to the closest thing they know – saunas and massages. But this is neither; its unique. Remember this is not a massage. It is a Turkish BATH. While they are washing you some massage is included.
Please don’t worry ! The whole package typically leaves clients relaxed and "floaty".
The sad reality is that the amount of service is reducing in Touristic areas, especially Istanbul, where some Hamams are notorious for charging tourists high fees, demanding extra tips even when they are "included" and then providing a disappointing "lick and a promise". In areas where tourists are rarely seen prices are lower and service greater, as with everything ! Seek out the latter !
Just as in a restaurant - if you like your "serving" and would like some more, "re-order" ! Tell the attendant how much extra you would like in Turkish Lira (say "daha" after the sum). The attendant actually receives very little of what you pay so even an extra dollar or two will add considerably to the "massage". Put this money in the tip box OR discretely into the attendant’s hand as you finally leave. Tips from the tip box will be divided among the staff.

WHAT IF I FEEL TOO SICK TO GO ?

Turks believe the Hamam is first-rate for colds and flu. A hot lemon and honey drink with aspirin beforehand may enhance a "healing sweat". The all-over heat can be great for pain and stiffness of various types too – its favourite activity after horse riding ! HOWEVER

People who are highly heat-intolerant may find the heat too much, even with rests.
People with Heart Disease should seek medical advice. Raising body temperature by even 1 degree Celsius raises metabolism (& work demands on the heart) by 10%. Ask your own doc !
It is always very important for everyone to be well-hydrated beforehand and to drink often – take 1.5 litres with you. Failure to observe this can result in severe headache.
Go out and cool off BEFORE the heat becomes too much. If your heart becomes very fast & "thumpy", cold water on the face, plunging your head into a basin of cold water, firmly massaging your carotid artery or doing the "Valsalvar Manoevre" may relieve it.

"GIRL TALK"...

WHAT IF I'VE GOT MY PERIOD ?

Its OK to go, but obviously not OK to make a mess ! Avoid that by using tampons - they "do the trick" very nicely ! Even if they are not normally your thing, don't miss out on having a Hamam for the sake of a 2 hour change of habit ! In fact there is nothing quite like lying full length on hot marble for a couple of hours to sooth tummy, back & leg aches. It's like a giant "hot water bottle" !

WHAT IF I'M PREGNANT ?

Turkish women go to the hamam throughout pregnancy and it is not uncommon to see very big bellies and even tiny newborns with their mums.

However, CURRENT MEDICAL UNDERSTANDING is that IN THE FIRST 16 WEEKS of pregnancy ALL avoidable overheating (including saunas, spas, sun-baking, fevers & strenuous exercise) is best avoided. *

Why ? Because in GUINEA PIG EXPERIMENTS there was an increase in serious Brain & Spinal Cord deformities.

After 16 weeks the baby's organ development is complete, undergoing maturation and growth only. Thus, after 16 weeks, this theoretical risk is over.

However, there is equally NO evidence that there is NO risk.

SO ...

1. If pregnant, or trying to be, err "on the safe side", and avoid the hamam.
2. Discuss this issue with your Doctor or Midwife before you come to Turkey OR use email to get their specific advice.

*This material was checked by a practising Fellow of the Royal College of Obstetricians & Gynaecologists, Australia, (eg a consultant specialist obstetrician)

IS IT OK TO GO TO "MIXED" BATHS ?

Please consider the following and then make your own informed decision.

Hamams come in 2 types. Some have 2 separate chambers – one for men and one for women. These were usually built by Royalty or Rich Benefactors and are found in towns that were wealthy in Ottoman times, like Istanbul, Bursa and Safranbolu. Others, particularly humble buildings in small towns, have a single chamber that traditionally has different times for men and women. In touristic areas the Men’s sessions may now incorporate Tourist Women.

But the Hamam is traditionally a place where men and women are strictly and utterly segregated. For 500 years single-sex chambers and attendants have been the norm.

~100 years ago the price for breaking this rule was execution !

In the past 10 years or so, "Mixed Bathing" has arisen from the demands of tourists, who, ignorant or inconsiderate of Turkish custom, have insisted on or settled for "Mixed" (unisex) bathing. This trend has been further promoted by Modern Resort Hotels building in-house unisex hamams for their own (mostly Tourist) guests.

This practice is unthinkable among the vast majority of Turks.

To see it through their eyes, forget about now - take yourself back to the western morality of the 50's and 60’s - before "living together" was generally acceptable.

Imagine your mother telling your grandparents (or even a young person today telling her friends) that she was going to the Football Club Rooms to take a shower with the team. Another example would be women using Male Public Toilets. The probable reaction gives you an idea of the general Turkish attitude toward Mixed Bathing.

As it is incomprehensible that men go to the female baths, tourist women have been incorporated into male ones.

Mixed Bathing has been very bad for the image of foreign women.
Extremely few Turkish women would even dream of going to one.

Women who go to mixed public baths are generally seen as amoral, as are the men who accompany them.
Thus women going to a mixed bath, even with a male escort at her side, have real potential to be misunderstood and to attract unwanted attention from some men.

However, just because a local man is present in a mixed bath does NOT mean he has dishonorable intentions or is a sleazy pervert out to get cheap thrills, although some answering that description can suddenly appear in the hamam once word gets around that there are foreign women in the Hamam.

Whether you "care" about this or not, your presence in a male session can inconvenience others:

Sometimes people ask us if there is "Men Only" time as well. Usually there isn’t and maybe there should be. It seems that men have to "put up with" tourist women in their sessions whether they like it or not. Men may have no idea that women are present until they are inside and may be extremely embarrassed or offended - to the point of leaving. One young man told us that when there are Tourist Women in the Male hamam, he keeps his back turned to them the whole time so as not to disrespect them or cause them discomfort. Another man we know leaves altogether. Why should they be put in this position ?

Other effects of Tourist Women attending Mixed (Men's) Baths:

To be fair, Tourism is not the only factor to effect hamams. But it does contribute to reduced demand for Women's Baths - with deleterious effects in many communities. Closure (as in Bergama) and drastically reduced hours (eg Selcuk) has resulted in:

far less choice for Turkish and foreign women who want "female-only service"
Turkish women losing their jobs in hamams
Turkish women losing opportunities to enjoy a social, traditional, healthy part of their own culture. Many Turkish women have never been to a hamam !

So this is not about morality, modesty, "right" or "wrong" –
Its much more "far-reaching" than that.

IF You Prefer "Women-Only" Services

· YOU ARE NOT ALONE ! - from our observation, the vast majority (~80%) of Foreign women actively want this and refuse mixed bathing. The staff at Selcuk Hamam were astonished to hear this - they thought that all foreign women didn't care. Most women who come with us to "Ladies Only" sessions love the "women only" aspect and cannot imagine it any other way (see "OUR CUSTOMERS SAY...")

DO SOMETHING ! PATRONISE THEM ! ASK FOR THEM !

If you care about these issues ask for "Sadece Bayanlar için" (For Women Only) wherever you see a hamam. This could be an act of cultural restoration and conservation: if enough Tourists ask often enough, maybe the lure of the dollar might restore availability. This would benefit everyone: tourists, female bath workers and local women.

NB Sometimes Hamams may be willing to "Close to the Public" so groups of tourist women can bath "discretely" but the staff may still be male. Be clear about exactly what is being offered.

WHAT OUR CUSTOMERS SAID....

We have a book where customers leave messages about Selcuk Tourism for those who will follow. We have reproduced the "Hamam" ones here. Repeated descriptions of procedure, already covered, have been edited out. Please note that the nudity often mentioned is always OPTIONAL in female baths – you cover up (or not) as much as you wish !

What the Girls Said...

"A definate 'must do' if you are a lady and fortunate enough to be here on Women Only day. We were almost rejected at first because they thought we were men ! But after stripping down to nothing and entering the steaming hot bathing room we were in HEAVEN ! We received the complete package consisting of a vigorous scrub down with a "kese" glove followed by a heavenly soapy wash and massage. We spent 2.5 hours in pure bliss washing each other's hair, receiving numerous massages (from each other) and slothfully lying on the gobek tasi (Belly stone)...You will leave feeling as clean as you have ever felt. A truly amazing experience ! Thanks ...." (Belinda and Clare, Brisbane)

"Today 4 of us went to the hamam for 2 hours of complete luxury ! It was so nice to do nothing but soak up the heat...A great day which is worth every single lira ! So much better that it is "female only' on fridays. Don't miss this one - you won't find it any better..." (Anna. NZ)

"In all we had a wonderful time in Selcuk but the best of all was the hamam. Its a wonderful experience I don't think anyone should miss. At first we were really shy and embarrassed to go in, but after a while we totally relaxed and had a great time. I must say that its a shame that Female Only time is only one afternoon per week. We could never imagine going in with men in the room. Its a personal, private heaven that women should share together, instead of mixed. We've never felt so squeaky clean and relaxed in all our lives. Don't be bashful - you'll miss out on an experience of a lifetime. Enjoy !" (Amberlyn and Linda, Alberta)

"Before Turkish Bath: very apprehensive at first and needed a lot of convincing...
After Turkish Bath: squeaky clean, refreshed. relaxed and more knowledgeable about one aspect of Turkish Life. I really enjoyed myself and am glad that I had the chance to go with (2 other women), I went on a friday and it was all about women, women, women. It was a fullfilling experience and I will always remember. Thank you !" (Diana, USA)

"The hamam is women's business; sharing, washing, talking and relaxing. It is a very interesting look at a very old Turkish custom and a bonding experience for all women...Thank you so much for showing me how to participate; I would not have missed this." (Denise, Sydney)

"The hamam is a wonderful experience. The women of Selcuk are friendly and gracious to guests. Don't miss this experience - I stayed 2 weeks so I could do it twice !"(Virginia, Texas)

"The hamam was a highlight of my trip to Turkey. I went with girls only and it was so relaxing. You sit around naked with complete strangers and don't even think twice. I felt cleaner than I have ever felt - my skin squeaked !" (Kari, California)

"I had never been naked in company in all my life and I got in there and I didn’t think twice...it was absolutely fine. My daughter is a "big girl" and a very private person and she was completely comfortable..."
(Name withheld – advice given by one woman to another who was feeling too shy to go, but eventually did)

"Five of us girls went off to experience a Turkish bath, all of us a little nervous, not quite knowing what to expect...I wore underwear but decided to bare all. It was great and a very different experience. Before the bath we were all a bit modest but now we are all great bosom buddies ! It was the highlight of my trip. It was great how the women looked after each other* - it made it more special"
(* washing each other's hair, rinsing each other after soapy wash-massage etc)
(Danielle, Megan, Penny, Virginia & Louise)

"We had a Turkish bath today at 12.30 and here I am at 10.00 pm still totally relaxed ! Its an experience not to be missed ! I was a little shy at first but as soon as I got in there... modesty was out the window ! Don't leave Selcuk without doing it !" (Manda, Sydney)

"You must go to the Friday afternoon Women Only Session at the Hamam. Do not go to the mixed session. It is culturally unacceptable and you will not be able to get a full body massage and wash, nor will you be able to decadently wallow around in the heat, lying flat out naked on the fine marble bench. By doing the Women Only Session you will have a much more relaxing, richer experience and you will be supporting these single sex sessions which are in danger of dying out due to a perceived lack of demand (particularly created by too many tourists attending mixed sessions). It is a wonderful experience. Your skin will feel like silk, your muscles will be completely relaxed, you’ll feel calm, exhausted and want to do nothing for the rest of the day. Plus you’ll have an excellent night’s sleep" (Sue, Sheffield & Hong Kong)

"(After a bad experience in a mixed hamam, with my boyfriend present, followed by a wonderful experience in Istanbul) I can only recommend that women go to the designated Ladies days with a woman attendant. It makes for a much better experience". (Donna, Brisbane)

"The Turkish Bath, I must say, has been one of my most enjoyed experiences in Turkey. I knew that I wanted to try one – but was unsure about the Turkish males that may have been in the bath or scrubbing me. I was uncertain if I was being sucked into a touristy gimmick place. I had no idea what would happen -–but I wanted to try one... It helped to have Bron to go with to explain what to do when we got there – because it is a completely foreign experience. The bath here in Selcuk I would recommend to all travellers who are keen to try... When first going in it is almost suffocating with its thick moist air and heat. However after becoming accustomed to (it) I relaxed & completely enjoyed myself. So many local Turkish women of all ages, shapes and sizes came to be scrubbed and scrub each other – something I have never seen in my society & culture – complete comfort with nudity (although for the modest - like myself – I started in the sarong but ended up wearing only swimmer bottoms). I have never felt so clean, relaxed and healthy as I did after the bath. I floated back to the Hotel and enjoyed a salep * !!!"(* a sweet Turkish drink )
(Jane, Brisbane)

What the Boys Said ....

"It seems that not many guys have written about the going to the hamam. Because of this I wasn’t sure whether to go and if I did what would happen. But if you get the chance – GO ! Its fantastic – really relaxing and the crud and dead skin that come off is disgusting but makes you feel really, really clean. A mate and I were in there for about 1.5 hours...I must admit that, after going, I am a bit of an advocate for single sex bathing. A few minutes after going into the bath some women came in. It’s not that it made us guys want to perve or anything but it really changes the dynamic of the place from a relaxing blokey sort of place to one where you suddenly have to be aware of sarong placement..." (Julian, Australia)

"Today I had a Turkish Bath and I must say the experience was wonderful. What a great way to finish off my holiday. Well worth the money." (David, England)

"A Turkish Bath is best enjoyed by having a shave beforehand. It really opens up the facial pores and enables you to really clean your face. The bath itself is a quite vigorous massage and I highly recommend the experience" (Keiran, Queensland)

"Excellent and well worthwhile. I was a bit nervous beforehand but I came out very satisfied, very relaxed and very clean. One of life’s truly great experiences... You come out cleaner and smoother than you’ve been since you were one year old." (unsigned)

We have noticed that women seem to be better at the self-indulgence thing than men, who tend to bolt once the service is over. We recommend that you try to go in a group – Hamam’s are as much a social event as a wash ! Turkish women sometimes take picnic baskets and favourite drinks with which to while away the hours !

A HOTBED of TRADITION !

DEFINATELY NOT JUST A PLACE TO GET CLEAN !

Hamams were hugely important places until modern plumbing became widespread - refusing to provide Bath Money to one’s wife was sufficient grounds for divorce ! They were at the centre of society and feature in FOLK LORE. For example, hamams are traditionally the dwelling places of "DJINNS" (genies) who were said to lurk in its dark corners and come out after closing to play cirit (javelin). Characters in Folktales sometimes had to go alone at night to the empty Hamam, the scary equivilent of going to graveyards, desolate castles & dark woods in Western Fairytales. (Ref: "The Art of the Turkish Tale" by Barbara K. Walker).

Just as today, people had their own sets of HAMAM ACCESSORIES which were common Trousseau Items and gifts. The poor had copper, tin, brass and cotton while wealthy people had silver, gold and silk.
Luxurious embroidered Pestemals, Bath Slippers inlaid with Mother-of-Pearl, metal soap dishes with handled lids and beautiful hand-made bowls - some with a spinning articulated metal fish on a central spike - can still be seen in Antique Shops and museums.

OLD BATH STORIES !

We love these old accounts of the place of the Hamam in Ottoman society – we hope you enjoy them too !

LADY MARY WORTLEY MONTAGU:
The Turkish Embassy Letters (aka "Letters from the Levent")

This wonderful letter was written on the 10 April 1718. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, wife of the English Ambassador, lived in Istanbul for several years and was remarkable for her open-minded, unprejudiced attitudes and observations. AND she had access to the wrold of women - denied to male travel writers.

The whole book is an absolutely fascinating glimpse into life in Upper Class Istanbul hundreds of years ago ...

A 'HEN's NIGHT' IN THE HAMAM

....Turkish ladies are perhaps more free than any ladies in the universe, and are the only women in the world that lead a life of uninterrupted pleasure, exempt from cares; their whole time being spent in visiting, bathing or the agreeable amusement of spending money and inventing new fashions..... It is true they have no places but the bagnios, and these can only be seen by their own sex; however, that is a diversion they take great pleasure in.

I was three days ago at one of the finest in the town, and had the opportunity of seeing a Turkish bride received there, and all the ceremony used on that occasion, which made me recollect 'The Epithalamium of Helen' by Theocritus: and it seems to me, that the same customs have continued ever since.

All the she friends, relations, and acquaintance of the two families, newly allied, meet at the bagnio; several others go out of curiousity, and I believe there were that day two hundred women. Those that were or had been married placed themselves round the rooms on the marble sofas: but the virgins very hastily threw off their clothes, and appeared without other ornament or covering than their own long hair braided with pearl or ribbon. Two of them met the bride at the door, conducted by her mother and another grave relation. She was a beautiful maid of about seventeen, very richly dressed, and shining with jewels, but was presently reduced to the state of nature. Two others filled silver gilt pots with perfume, and began the procession, the rest following in pairs, to the number of thirty. The leaders sung an epithalamium, answered by the others in chorus, and the two last led the fair bride, her eyes fixed on the ground, with a charming affectation of modesty. In this order they marched round the three largest rooms of the bagnio. It is not easy to represent to you the beauty of this sight, most of them being well proportioned and white skinned; all of them perfectly smooth and polished by the frequent use of bathing. After having made their tour, the bride was again led to every matron round the rooms, who saluted her with a compliment and a present, some of jewels, others of pieces of stuff, handkerchiefs, or little gallantries of that nature, which she thanked them for, by kissing their hands. I was very well pleased with having seen this ceremony...

When she first entered Turkey, Lady Mary wasted no time entering a Hamam, just for a look...

“In one of these covered wagons, I went to the bagnio about ten o’clock. It was already full of women. It is built of stone in the shape of a dome, with no windows but in the roof which gives light enough. There was five of these domes joined together, the outmost being less than the rest and serving only as a hall, where the portress stood at the door. Ladies of quality generally give this woman the value of a crown or ten shillings and I did not forget that ceremony. The next room is a very large one paved with marble, and all round it raised two sofas of marble one above another. There were four fountains of cold water in this room, falling first into marble basins, and then running on the floor in little channels made for that purpose, which carried the streams into the next room, something less than this, with the same sort of marble sofas, but so hot with steams of sulphur proceeding from the baths joining to it, ‘twas impossible to stay there with one’s clothes on. The two other domes were the hot baths, one of which had cocks of cold water turning into it to temper it to what degree of warmth the bathers have a mind to.

It was my travelling habit, which is a riding dress, and certainly appeared very extraordinary to them. Yet there was not one of them that showed the least surprise or impertinent curiosity, but received me with all the obliging civility possible. I know no European court where the ladies would have behaved themselves in so polite a manner to a stranger. I believe, in the whole, there were two hundred women, and yet none of those disdainful smiles or satirical whispers that never fail in our assemblies when anybody appears that is not dressed exactly in fashion. They repeated over and over to me; ‘Guzelle, pek guzelle’, which is nothing but ‘charming, very charming’. The first sofas were covered with cushions and rich carpets on which sat that ladies and on the second their slaves behind them, but without any distinction of rank by their dress, all being in the state of nature, that is, in plain English, stark naked without any beauty or defect concealed. Yet there was not the least wanton smile or immodest gesture amongst them. They walked and moved with the same majestic grace which Milton describes of our general mother*. There were many amongst them as exactly proportioned as ever any goddess was drawn by the pencil of Guido or Titian, and most of their skins shiningly white, only adorned by the beautiful hair divided into many tresses, hanging on their shoulders, braided either with pearl or ribbon, perfectly representing the figures of the Graces.

I was here convinced of the truth of a reflection I had often made, that if it was the fashion to go naked, the face would be hardly observed. I perceived that the ladies with finest skins and most delicate shapes had the greatest share of my admiration, though the faces were sometimes less beautiful than those of their companions. To tell you the truth, I had wickedness enough to wish secretly that Mr Gervase could have been there invisible. I fancy it would have very much improved his art to see so many fine women naked, in different postures, some in conversation, some working, others drinking coffee or sherbet, and many negligently lying on their cushions while their slaves (generally pretty girls of seventeen or eighteen) were employed in braiding their hair in several pretty manners. In short, ‘tis the women’s coffee house, where all the news of the town is told, scandal invented, etc. They generally take this diversion once a week, and stay there at least four or five hours, without getting cold by immediate coming out of the hot bath into the cool room, which was very surprising to me. The lady that seemed the most considerable amongst them entreated me to sit by her and would fain have undressed me for the bath. I excused myself with some difficulty, they being however all so earnest in persuading me, I was at last forced to open my shirt, and show them my stays, which satisfied them very well, for I saw they believed I was so locked up in that machine, that it was not in my own power to open it, which contrivance they attributed to my husband. I was charmed with their civility and beauty, and should have been very glad to pass more time with them, but Mr Wortley resolving to pursue his journey the next morning early I was in haste to see the ruins of Justinian’s church, which did not afford me so agreeable a prospect as I had left, being little more than a heap of stones.

Adieu, madam, I am sure I have now entertained you with an account of such a sight as you never saw in your life, and what no book of travels could inform you of, as ‘tis no less than death for a man to be found in one of these places.”

* Eve

"THE HAMAM TRICK "

Baron W. Wratislaw, who came to Istanbul in 1591 accompanying the Austrian Embassy delegation from Vienna, witnessed how an Ottoman woman could be very shrewd if she wanted a man, and he noted this event in his diary:

Mustafa had once met a lady and he invited her to the Embassy, so I prepared delicious desserts and bought the best wine for this occasion. I used to like him because he was originally a Bohemian and he was always nice and polite to me. Mustafa's lover had an extremely jealous elderly husband who never trusted his wife, and he followed her everywhere she went. But who could stop a woman who was determined to deceive her husband? Of course nobody. She used the Hamam Trick and managed to attend her rendezvous.

She told her husband that it was time for the hamam and with two of her slaves walking behind her and carrying bundles on their heads, she headed for Cemberlitas hamam. (This hamam was built by one of the Sultan's legal wifes Ruska Sultan). The hamam was very close to the Embassy and as she was walking by she made a sign to Mustafa which meant she would attend the invitation on time.

At that time of the day Cemberlitas hamam was only at ladies disposal and no man could enter unless he wanted to commit suicide. Her husband, who was green in the eye, saw her entering the hamam and situated himself in a suitable corner to wait for his wife.

In the meantime, his wife was changing her green outfit for a red one which was in her bundle. Leaving her slaves in the hamam she rushed out and found herself in Mustafa's room. Greeting her happily, Mustafa, who was generous in his hospitality, entertained her very well. After the party she went back to the hamam, washed off her sins and returned home with her husband.

This little trick of hers always made us burst into laughter... whenever we recalled that event (with Mustafa)".

ERDOGAN, Sema: "Sexual Life in Ottoman Society"

An Autocrat at the Hamam

Now and then, usually about once in a week, my grandmother had a sociable turn of mind and when these moods came upon her she invariably went to the Hamam. Hamams, or Turkish Baths, were hot-beds of gossip and scandal-mongering, snobbery in its most inverted form and the excuse for every woman in the district to have a day out. Nobody ever dreamed of taking a bath in anything under seven or eight hours. The young girls went to show off their pink-and-white bodies to the older women. Usually the mothers of eligbible sons were in their minds for this purpose for these would, it was to be hoped, take the first opportunity of detailing to their sons the finer points of So-and-so's naked body. Marriages based on such hearsay quite frequently took place, but whether or not they were successful few of us had any means of knowing.

In the hot rooms of the Hamams little jealousies and rivalries were fanned into strong fires and very often fights took place between the mothers of attractive daughters vieing for the favours of the same young man.

As against the mothers of daughters, the mothers of sons took pride of place. There was a sort of sharp dividing line drawn between them and it was quite easy for a stranger to tell which of the plump, matronly ladies had the best wares for sale. For whereas the mothers of daughters were inclined to laugh a lot, to draw attention to their family groups, the mothers of sons lay aloof on their divans - too conscious of their own superiority to contribute to the general noise and scandalising. They would lazily nibble fruit, eye the simpering, posturing young girls critically and sometimes accept the offer of having their backs washed by some ravishing young creature but with such condescension that immediately the wildest speculations were engendered in the other female breasts as to why such an obvious favour had been shown at all. The back-washing concluded, the ravishing young creature would be dismissed and one by one the mothers of the ignored daughters would sidle up to the devilish old autocrat who had just had her back washed and whisper the most damning things about the character of the recent, elated, now vanished back-washer.

"Portrait of a Turkish Family": Irfan Orga (Eland)

DID YOU KNOW ?

The Turkish word for COCKROACH is "HAMAM BOGEGI" or "Hamam Insect" ?
(We’ve never seen one in a hamam – its because they like water and drains !)

Temples to The Body

"TURKISH BATHS"
*By Emel Çelebi *Photos Çetin Korkmaz

The Turkish bath or hamam is an atmospheric world all its own in the midst of the modern bustling city. Everyone who sets foot in here surrenders to the water in a voluntary form of captivity, for the process of purification of not just the body but also the soul.

Upon entering the door you find yourself inthe camekan, a hall lined with changing cubicles. In an old-fashioned hamam this is the most impressive part, with a drinking fountain in the centre or sometimes a marble pool with a water jet. Before your encounter with water can start you must undress in one of the cubicles and wrap your body in a cotton or silk bathing cloth known as a pestimal. Then you are ready to go into the bath, which is reached through an antechamber called the soðukluk where there is a room for shaving, lavatories and a tea stall selling beverages.

When the door to the bath proper, known as the sýcaklýk or harrare, opens you find yourself in a high room filled with the sound of splashing water, the scent of soap, and wafting steam through which daily concerns and worries cannot penetrate. In the gentle moist heat your body relaxes, and your nerves are soothed. You sit down at one of the marble wash basins which line the walls, and adjusting the temperature of the water to a delicious warmth, dip the copper bathing bowl into the basin and tip the water over your head and body. Waves of relaxation seem to pour right through you as the water ripples down.

From the score or more tiny circular glass lights in the dome an enchanted luminous light filters down into the bath. The long narrow rays pierce through the dim heights of the dome and play all day long on the stone platform known as the göbek taþý in the centre of the room.

When you have finished washing stretch out on this platform, which is heated from beneath. Soon the heat will have opened the pores in your skin, and the bath attendant (known as a natýr in a women's bath and a tellak in the male establishment) will come along carrying a bath glove made of coarse raw silk. Entrust your body to their skilled hands as they vigorously rub away the layer of dead skin, then soap and rinse you well. If asked they will go on to give you a massage. After being kneaded from top to toe on top of the relaxing effect of all that hot water you naturally begin to feel delightfully sleepy. The Spanish writer Juan Goytisolo describes this as a state of unimaginable bliss, and says that when he came out of the hamam his body which had been 'taken to pieces and put together again, soaped from head to foot, rinsed, dried, and relieved of tension' felt like wearing a new suit of clothes.

Baths served as health centres among the ancient Greeks and have been an important part of daily life in Istanbul since Roman and Byzantine times. Under the Romans, Byzantines baths were more than places to wash, but social clubs where people met their friends and conversed or argued over politics. Like hippodromes and theatres they were places where people gathered to enjoy themselves. This social aspect of the bath continued into Ottoman times, when large numbers of hamams were constructed all over the empire. Now people gathered together either in the Turkish bath or in coffee houses.

The ritual of the weekly expedition to the bath house involved elaborate preparations. Only the rich could afford the luxury of a private hamam supplied with hot running water attached to their homes, so the majority of families went to the public baths. For women, in particular, whose lives were confined to their homes, families, visits to neighbours and shopping, a day spent at the bath was an entertaining occasion to be looked forward to from week to week. The women and children of the family, perhaps with their friends or neighbours, set out early in the morning for the neighbourhood bath carrying their bundles of clean clothes and a picnic of stuffed vegetables, pickles, savoury pastries and sherbet. After spending a leisurely morning washing, this delicious food prepared the previous day was spread out in the antechamber. The remainder of the day would be spent dressing the hair, napping and chatting, and then towards sundown the party would make its way home.

The seclusion of women which was practised so strictly in Ottoman towns and cities was reflected in the architecture of the hamam. Naturally it was unthinkable that men and women should bathe together, so either baths catered entirely for one of the sexes, or large double baths known as çifte hamam were built with separate sections for men and women. The men's section of the latter had a large ornate entrance opening onto the main street, while the women's section had a plain one opening modestly onto a side street.

The 17th century Turkish traveller and writer Evliya Çelebi recorded that there were 151 hamams in Istanbul. A bath house was a lucrative source of income, which may explain why so many were built. Their consumption of water and fire wood for the furnace rose to such heights that in the 18th century the government took measures to restrict their numbers.

Let us take a brief look at some of the most notable of Istanbul's Turkish baths. The oldest in the city is the Irgat Hamam built during the reign of Mehmed the Conqueror (1451-1481), while the only hamam to have been built on the foundations of an earlier Byzantine bath is Yýldýz Dede Hamam in Bahçekapý. One of the most magnificent of all hamams is the 16th century Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamam situated between Haghia Sophia and Sultan Ahmed Mosque. This hamam is no longer in use, instead housing a carpet shop. Excavations nearby revealed the remains of the famous Byzantine Zeuksippos Bath.

Just past the great underground cistern known as Yerebatan Sarayý is Caðaloðlu Hamam, whose baroque architecture and bath 'tours' with belly dancing and dinner inclusive have made it a popular tourist attraction. This hamam was built in 1741, the last to be built before the construction of large hamams was prohibited in 1768. Çemberlitaþ Hamam on Divanyolu was built by the celebrated Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan in 1584 and is famous for its interior decoration. Part of the camekan of the women's section of this hamam was knocked down to make way for a road during the reign of Sultan Abdülaziz (1860-1876). A hamam of historic importance which is still in use today is Galatasaray Hamam in Beyoðlu. This hamam was constructed in 1715 for men only, although later on a small women's section was added. It is also unique as the only hamam in Istanbul to have been awarded a certificate by the Ministry of Tourism. However, it is not unique in having a website. You may be as surprised as I was to learn that most of these large hamams are on the Internet.

The dizzying speed of modern life has made the leisurely hamam bath a luxury few can spare time for today. But there are still some Turkish people who go regularly for "a real bath". Next time you are in Istanbul and want to feel that lightness of being which only a Turkish bath can impart, then take time out from sightseeing for a few hours and head for the nearest hamam.

* Emel Çelebi is a journalist.

WOMEN !

Spoil Yourself ! Join Us for a
"LADIES ONLY" TURKISH BATH

FRIDAYS, NOON - 4 PM
~ We Can Take A Group ~
Tickets available from reception
NOT TO BE MISSED !